Five real questions on steel almirah installation and care, answered on this date and archived here once the next day's set went live.
A level, solid floor is usually all that's needed for a standard almirah — an uneven floor can cause the door to swing open or shut on its own and stress the hinges over time. For a very tall or heavy full-height unit, confirm the floor can bear a concentrated load, especially on upper floors of older buildings, and ask the supplier whether wall-anchoring is recommended for that specific size.
Yes, a steel almirah can usually be repainted, though the original powder-coat finish is more durable and consistent than most on-site repainting, since powder coating is baked on in a controlled process. Localised touch-ups for scratches are straightforward; a full refinish is more involved and best done by someone experienced with steel furniture rather than a general painter.
Visible (external) hinges are simpler, generally more robust under heavy daily use, and easier to service or replace if needed. Concealed hinges give a cleaner appearance but can be more expensive to repair and are usually a design preference rather than a durability upgrade for high-traffic institutional furniture.
Occasional light lubrication of the lock and hinges (a dry graphite or silicone-based lubricant, not oil that attracts dust) prevents stiffness over years of daily use. Keep the lock area free of dust buildup and avoid forcing a key that doesn't turn smoothly, since forcing it is a common cause of a lock mechanism actually failing.
Powder coating is generally more durable — it's applied as a dry powder and cured under heat into a harder, more even finish that resists chipping and scratching better than most liquid paint. Liquid paint can be more flexible for small custom-colour runs but is typically more prone to wear over the same years of daily institutional use.